December 6, 2010 § Leave a comment
Hello foodie friends!! I am happy to announce that the Veggie Test Kitchen has moved to a permanent home at: http://veggietestkitchen.com/
I will be moving the archives over to the new site slowly over time to maintain the integrity of the formatting and content. This site will stay live until the full transition has been made. I hope that you will be as thrilled as I am with the new site. As always, I love hearing your feedback, so please let me know if you have any suggestions about design or content.
Until then, happy eating!!!
December 2, 2010 § 1 Comment
You may think I’m referring to Thanksgiving here, as it just passed and holds title for the one day of the year that Americans collectively come together to really enjoy their food. But, I’m not. This brief missive is inspired by a dinner a small group of friends shared in which our host, good friend R., gathered us to serve the savoury Roasted Vegetable Napoleon she had recently made from the Real Food Daily cookbook and was quite excited about. I’m guessing this napoleon took away half of R.’s waking hours to put together, and I say this because I arrived at 3pm in the afternoon to do a bit of learning at which point she was only about half way through her prep. work!
The dinner was lovely. This is the sort of food that puts the cloud of vegan or vegetarianism aside, and rests on the fundamental merit of excellence. In the midst of enjoying the wonderful meal, we wondered if it was really worth R.’s time to make, considering it took nearly her entire Saturday to prep and cook. Of course being on the receiving end, our answers were unanimously yes. R., however, describes the experience as a process that she enjoys immensely, and not necessarily as a finished product with a ‘worth’ stamped on it, measured in time. R. takes great pride in her work, in the technique, the process, the construction, all of it, and that pride of practice is apparent in the plate. Creating inspired food is a hobby not unlike sailing or running, only at the end of the day you’re able to share the benefits of your hobby with others. The evening meal becomes an added bonus to top off a day spent practicing something you love to do while discovering, experimenting and creating something new and tangible during the process.
I have to say, my social life has transformed in response to my new appreciation for food. Sit down dinners over wonderful meals and good conversation have taken over from the consistently interrupted restaurant dining experience that often restricts the time period of your evening and carries over into other less meaningful activities to fill in the space. The new delight in researching techniques, playing with ingredients and making things I might never have otherwise is an active dialogue shared amongst foodie friends at the dinner table. I don’t know why it is, but discussions about food open people up in a way that no other topic, short of war stories, tends to do. Maybe it’s that feeding and nourishing a person at your table is a means of creating a unique bond that mimics an aspect of the parent-child relationship in some way. Perhaps I’m stretching here.
In The Making of a Pastry Chef, a book I’m currently reading, Andrew MacLauchlan traces the history of the pastry from the first crackers cooked on sun-exposed rock and man-kind’s first ovens made to bake some of the world’s first recorded breads (at least as we know them, courtesy of the ancient Greeks), all the way to modern times. He describes the evolution experienced by the ancient Romans in which food’s role in life moved from the center of sustenance to the center of celebration,
Cooking, up to that time considered a lowly job, became known as high art and was heavily influenced by the food of its conquered territories. Early Roman feasts included many new tastes as trade with Asia, Persia and the Middle East introduced apricots, peaches, plums, quinces, and raspberries to Rome’s orchards, spawning the first international cuisine. The convergence of many ingredients gave rise to a culturally specific and complex cuisine. Food and dining held significant meaning beyond mere sustenance; they now related to celebration and revelry in the form of banquets and festivals.
In my own evolution, abundance of time and resource has spawned meaningful preparation and frequent revelry around large dining tables with good friends and many who have become so after sharing in the experience of witnessing someone’s laboring in a kitchen for half a day to ensure that each layer of a Roasted Vegetable Napoleon boasts the flavors and textures that will make the whole a masterpiece. So, is it all worth it? That entirely depends on what food means to you. If you’re reading this then the answer is most probably a hearty yes.
How has your culinary experience evolved or flourished over the years?
November 30, 2010 § 10 Comments
This was my absolute first time working with pumpkin. Never carved one for Halloween or made a pumpkin pie, so this was an experience. I started by cutting a top off of the pumpkin of about 1/3rd of the area. I then scooped out the seeds. Saved those, seasoned them and then baked them for about 10 minutes to snack on later. I then rubbed my two large pumpkin pieces with olive oil and salt and pepper then baked them with the hole sides facing down for about 15 minutes which is how long it took for the meat to become tender. Once tender, this pumpkin meat is ripe for cooking. I just scooped it out and used it in the Pumpkin Couscous recipe I found. When the couscous was done I spooned it into the cavity of my baked pumpkin and served! The presentation is interesting, but I have to admit that I’m not a big fan of pumpkin…yet. I’ve got to figure out how that chef made his pumpkin shell so tender but sturdy…and yummy. I think its hard to hate a creamy risotto, and easier to dismiss a wholewheat couscous, but that’s the price you pay when you’re trying to keep the daily food intake on a level that won’t permanently damage the waistline.
(adapted from Epicurious, serves two)
Meat from a small pumpkin (should be about 2 cups)
1 tbsp olive oil
2 small shallots minced
2 cloves garlic minced
3/4-1 cup water
1/2 cup milk or half and half
1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese
1/2 cup whole wheat couscous
2 handfuls of fresh spinach
1 tbsp. parsley (fresh is best)
crushed red pepper flakes
salt and pepper to taste
Over medium heat, saute shallots and garlic until the shallots are translucent. Add the crushed red pepper flakes, baked pumpkin meat and sautee for 3-5 minutes. Add the spinach and 3/4 cup of water and then let this mixture cook until the spinach wilts. Don’t forget to season!! Add the milk and couscous and allow this to simmer until the couscous absorbs the liquid (add the last 1/4 cup of water if necessary). Sprinkle with grated parmesan. Serve.
I also received a small surprise in the mail today!! A few weeks ago I won the Birch+Bird giveaway hosted by City Cradle Design. Lily + Rachel from Birch+Bird were nice enough to giveaway a $50 credit to their Etsy store, which I won. Winning things is quite an immediate mood elevator, and I highly recommend it =) I picked out their vintage cheese cloche, due to its brownie and lemon bar storage functionality, which I just received today along with a nice note from Lily + Rachel and recipe cards b/c they know I’m a kitchen girl!! Thanks to Lily + Rachel and to City Cradle for hosting this awesome giveaway.
November 29, 2010 § 8 Comments
The first stall I stopped at had the most beautiful blossoms with large cavities, and since I had never tried them I had a chat with the vendor who kindly showed me how to remove the pistil to stuff them and explained how they should be pan-fried. I’m such a sucker, I bought them from him @ 5.99/lb. The first stall! You never buy produce from the first stall!! You’re suppose to take a lap, check out the goods, then go home with the market’s best products. I’ve read plenty of how-tos, first hand accounts of trickery and foolish purchases. But away I went giddy with my blossoms, mind already buzzing about how I would stuff them, when I found another stall selling bunches of 10 for $1!!!! Sigh, lesson learned.
I brought them back to make a tea snack, stuffing them with goat cheese, basil dried from our plant that sadly died at the end of summer, garlic powder and cracked black pepper. A pictorial recipe follows sans exact measurements, as this quick experiment resulted in lots of joy and little recording.
A special thank you to our lovely friend C. who hosted Thanksgiving at her home this year along with a hike (we’re healthy vegetarians!) and fruit picking out in the country. I came home with enough pomegranates to experiment for weeks, so an advance apology goes out to those of you loyal readers who may tire of the headlines. I took oreo truffles, mint chocolate truffles and an apple, goat-cheese and persimmon tart to the Thanksgiving feast; all were made leisurely over the span of a few days. The trick was to make the tart dough on Tuesday. It lived in the refrigerator until Thursday morning. The oreo truffles were also made ahead of time and refrigerated. I made the mint chocolate truffles the night before with a friend as a fun activity for movie night, where we feasted on a deep-dish pizza experiment which used a vegan version of my tart dough. The pizza was amazing, and I will post all about in the future because I definitely plan on making it again and again!
November 27, 2010 § 18 Comments
I spent the day with my good friend K., who I’ve known for many years, maybe a good 8, although I’m not quite sure, time is flying and I tend not to litter my memories with facts and figures. It’s just one big Proust-like stream of consciousness that delights at odd, unplanned times. I’m afraid that if I catalogued happy memories, I’d access them to the point of rendering them mundane. So it is. My friend and I came together to catch up and engage in a bit of consumerism this Black Friday. To kick off the day I hosted a brief tea at my home and served mini crostatas, layered with cream cheese and pomegranate puree. I am very lucky to have received a visit from my pomegranate fairy C. (thanks C.!!) recently. So, I will be infusing everything with the fruit for a couple of weeks to come.
The crostatas were inspired by this month’s Daring Bakers’ challenge, which incidentally is due, so to speak, today! The 2010 November Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by Simona of briciole. She chose to challenge Daring Bakers’ to make pasta frolla for a crostata. She used her own experience as a source, as well as information from Pellegrino Artusi’s Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well.
The tart recipes Simona provided were with eggs, so I had to make a few substitutions to my own recipe, because any of you who follow the Veggie Test Kitchen know that I am obsessed with making tarts. I altered my classic tart recipe by simply adding powdered sugar, lemon zest and vanilla extract. I am not a big fan of sweet pastry crusts, so I added only 1/4 cup of the sugar.
The star of this crostata (Italian for ‘tart’) was the pomegranate puree I used as the top layer. This was an experiment that consisted of blending pomegranate seeds. I bet on the idea that blending long enough would pulverize the seeds. That didn’t exactly happen. During my attempt to strain the mush I ended up with a small shot of pure pomegranate liquid that I surely couldn’t bake. So, I drank it. And it was so much better than the bottles of ‘pure’ Pomegranate juice that I usually buy. I saw the leftover mush and thought, great, good as jam, right? Wrong, somewhat anyway. The seeds weren’t so bad (they survived largely crushed), and the crostata was great! I will have to figure out a way to really pulverize the seeds for the future. Other than that, I’d say this was a hit. The classic Italian crostata is made with a layer of fruit preserves much like my attempt here. I like the idea, and am glad to have added it to my tart repertoire.
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November 24, 2010 § 17 Comments
I’ve been randomly watching too many videos on tempering chocolate and other wonderful confections recently. My goal is to chart a serious course in the wonderful world of chocolatier-ing at some point in the future. The whole process. Down to the beans. This is a dream I guess you could say. I’ve been thinking about this recently. If there were no limits to what you could spend your life and days doing, what might you do?? Without a doubt, I would spend my mornings making pastries and confections in some well-light Parisian kitchen. I would have a fail-proof recipe for eggless double-decker macaroons that taste not much different from the wonderful goodness on display at Ladurée down the way. I’d spend my nights with the expats, and my vacations scouring the world, Indonesia, Ecuador… for the best cocoa crops. I’d retire to trading beans on the exchanges, and probably die as fulfilled as one can be after a life on earth. Maybe writing it down counts for something to the universe?? One can only hope, I suppose.
Making truffles in my little kitchen is a humble attempt into this world, and at that Oreo ‘truffle’s. A gateway to the gateway you could say. If oreo truffles could even be called truffles is suspect, as they lack the central tenet of truffle-ism, which is to possess a ganache heart. We can leave tradition and let it slide for the moment, as we’re currently spending our days in the States, which is about innovation and evolution, and lexical violations that might inspire people to venture in their kitchens with a smile are OK.
Ruminations aside, these are tremendously easy to make for those of you out there who may be thinking this is something you just cannot do at home due to the mess factor, the burning chocolate factor (this is real, and a menace, I have burned holes through many storage apperatusses due to overheating chocolate), or any other factor. It requires simply, one pair of hands, a double boiler, oreos, cream cheese and semi-sweet baking chocolate. The recipe I used is quite widely disseminated over the web. I think that maybe the only unique aspect in my go at it is that I chose to coat my truffles in melted dark chocolate. For the oreo truffle, many people choose to coat in melted white chocolate. If I were to do it again, which I definitely will, I would never again coat truffles in melted chocolate. I am going to get creative with the powder coatings. It’s the cleanest, most presentable method, and further, truffle centers tend to be quite rich so coating them with a powder would result in a more balanced finished piece.
Oreo Chocolate Truffles
(makes 20 two-bite pieces)
21 oreo cookies (do not get the double-stuffed stuff), uniformly crushed
4 oz of full-fat cream cheese, at room temperature
1 cup of semi-sweet chocolate baking chips
Mix the crushed oreos and the cream cheese with your hands until both are thoroughly incorporated. You should be left with a ball that looks like stiff mud. Roll out small balls with a melon scoop or with your hands. You should end up with about 20 small balls (as pictured). In a double boiler (or in the microwave, but be careful if you plan to use a microwave, as chocolate heats very quickly. I would suggest using a glass bowl and zapping at 15 second intervals, stirring in between), melt your chocolate chips until smooth, stirring consistently. Turn off the heat and dip your oreo balls in the melted chocolate. Lay the truffles on wax paper to harden. You can garnish your truffles with toppings before they set. Refrigerate for about an hour to allow the truffles to set. These can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to one week.
November 22, 2010 § 6 Comments
Thanksgiving inspires a plethora of wonderful side and dessert recipes. Having a stronger sweet tooth, I’d say, my attention is always immediately drawn to the cakes I see. Cake recipes, pictures, descriptions, you name it. I’m all over cakes. One of the cakes I’ve been meaning to check off of my To Do list most recently is the Carrot Cake. It seems like such a natural idea to make a vegetable cake in the wintertime, I don’t know why. It’s kind of the same weird inclination that makes you want to eat fruit in the summertime, just a body clock thing I suppose.
While researching a good Carrot cake recipe, and eggless mind you, I noticed that a good number of recipes tend to mix a fruit juice into the batter. I’ve so far seen orange juice, pineapple juice, and applesauce used. In an effort to use what I have, and to put a personal spin on the dish, I ended up squeezing some pomegranate seeds to make a few teaspoons of pure juice that I put into my cake batter. In keeping with the pomegranate accent, I filled the center of the cake with pomegranate seeds. It’s a very interesting cake. And most importantly, MOIST. I’m very pleased with this cake, and plan to make it many times again in the future.
Carrot and Pomegranate Cake
(makes two mini 2-layer cakes, or alternatively one 9-inch round cake pan. I make my mini layered cakes by baking in crème brûlée dishes)
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1 tbsp flax-seed powder mixed in with 3 tbsp warm water (this simulates the inclusion of one egg)
1/2 stick of butter, room temperature
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 cup sour cream
1/4 cup milk
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup sugar in the raw
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1 cup shredded carrots
2 tsps pure pomegranate juice
Preheat your oven to 350 degrees.
Mix the dry ingredients (flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, salt) in a bowl.
In a separate, and large bowl, heat your butter for about 15 seconds in the microwave. To this bowl, add the wet ingredients (flax-seed ‘egg’, brown sugar, sugar in the raw, vanilla extract, milk and sour cream). Mix until all of the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated.
Slowly add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients while mixing. Once thoroughly incorporated, add the carrots and pomegranate juice.
Pour the batter into a greased and floured 9-inch round cake pan, or 4 crème brûlée dishes.
Bake on 350 degrees for about 30 minutes or until the cake(s) is(are) able to pass the toothpick test.
Garnish with cream cheese frosting & 1 cup chopped walnuts
Cream cheese frosting
(from Breakfast Lunch Dinner Punch)
4 oz cream cheese
1/4 cup butter
1/2 lb icing sugar
1 tsp vanilla essence
Beat ingredients together until fully incorporated.
If looking for a quick fix for the topping, try my lazy trick of mixing 1 part ready-made frosting with 3 parts cool whip. The cool whip acts to tone down the sweetness of the ready-made frosting. You can control the level of sweetness by adjusting the ratio of cool whip/ready-made frosting accordingly.